Could this chic air fryer replace the AGA? Here's my home-cooked review of Smeg's new countertop oven

When you think of an AGA, you might envision the rustic charm of English country kitchens, but you may also cringe at the hefty price tag and outdated technology. On the other end of the appliance spectrum, the best air fryers are amazingly efficient, but packaged in a functional design that can clash with your kitchen aesthetic.

Enter the Smeg Countertop Steam Oven with Air Fry. I tested this appliance in my home kitchen for a week and truly fell in love. Packed with the 1950s character of Smeg’s beloved fridges and toasters, this oven can steam, bake, air fry and more – offering vintage charm in a tech-savvy package.

So, if you're seeking a cooker that blends beauty with cutting-edge cooking functions (or if you’ve avoided ugly air fryers in the past), then this review is for you.

Smeg Countertop Air Fry Oven: First impressions

When I unboxed the Smeg Countertop Steam Oven with Air Fry, it was love at first sight. With its glossy cream finish and swoon-worthy retro design, this appliance brought instant character to my kitchen.

I ran into a couple of small hurdles. It is super heavy. I couldn't lift it to my countertop, so I had to annoy my partner for some assistance. Also, the power cord is disappointingly short. I couldn’t plug it in exactly where I wanted – this was irritating since I had a specific design vision.

Once it was in situ, I was thrilled. There was something magical about how instantly this piece elevated my space. It’s enormous, yes, but it brings quintessential Italian charm. You’ll want to show it off to everyone who walks through the door.

Tested and reviewed by

Tested and reviewed by

Lydia Hayman

As a trained cook and air fryer obsessive, I tested the Smeg Countertop Oven in my home kitchen. To find the best appliances on the market, I focus on exceptional cooking performance, ease of use, cleaning, and design.

Cooking performance

Test 1: Baking

For my first bake, I chose something simple: pain au chocolat made from pre-rolled dough. The oven preheated in just 4 minutes, which is leagues ahead of my traditional oven’s warm-up time. However, I couldn't figure out the built-in timer. I had to rely on my phone to keep track.

The pastries came out soft, though a touch paler than I would’ve liked, and the bottoms weren’t quite golden. I flipped them over and gave them a couple more minutes, and they finally emerged golden and soft inside. The perfect companion to my morning espresso.

Test 2: Steaming

I was so excited about the steam function. There are three to choose from. Pure Steam uses 100% steam to cook vegetables, rice, dumplings, and bao buns. Convection and grill steam are better for gently caramelizing meat with a tender, steaming interior.

For my first test, I steamed a bunch of Tenderstem broccoli and mangetout. When you steam cook, vegetables are exposed to less water, which reduces nutrient loss. Steaming helps preserve color, texture, and flavor. My veggies came out of the oven looking vibrant green and delicious.

I then steamed frozen gyozas. I re-filled the steaming tray with water and within minutes, the dumplings were soft, silky, and piping hot inside. I was super impressed. To add a little extra flavor, I pan-fried them in sesame oil, creating a crispy edge.

Test 3: Air Frying

For an easy Friday night dinner, my partner and I tested the air frying function with frozen French fries. We waited an agonizing five minutes for the preheat – we're used to making chips in the Ninja DoubleStack, which heats up immediately.

Once the oven was ready (with its signature, high-pitched ping) we added the fries and waited around 18 minutes for them to crisp up. The results weren’t quite as quick and delicious as the best air fryers I've tried, but they were still enjoyable.

We also air-fried Padron peppers for our dinner. They didn’t quite achieve the charred effect of more powerful models, but the peppers were tender and flavorful. Overall, the air frying function performs well, albeit less intensely and slower than the market leaders.

Test 4. Steam Baking

One of the standout features of this air fry oven is its steam-baking function. I decided to try making a sponge cake, and the process was incredibly simple. After a quick four-minute preheat, I added water to the steam tray and poured in my cake batter. The result? A light, fluffy, and perfectly moist sponge in just 20 minutes.

As part of my research into can you bake a cake in an air fryer, I also tested the air frying function for the top layer of my cake. The differences were striking, which you can read about in the article. If you’re a passionate baker with a love for patisserie, you’ll truly appreciate the steaming feature. It adds a touch of luxury to everyday baking, resulting in cakes that feel almost professionally crafted.

Ease of use

Despite its many functions, the Smeg Countertop Air Fry Oven is refreshingly straightforward to use. The dial allows you to switch between cooking modes effortlessly.

You can scan the QR code to get visual set-up instructions from Smeg. However, compared to the polished user experience I’ve seen from brands like Dreo and Ninja, it was a little underwhelming. I was expecting something a little bit more helpful, like chef instruction videos or a bespoke recipe booklet.

Cleaning

Cleaning the oven is relatively easy. Smeg recommends using the steam function to loosen any cooking grease or stuck-on food, which is a great idea. The removable trays are too large for the dishwasher, so you'll need to wash them by hand. Personally, I always use parchment paper or liners, so this isn't a problem for me. The sleek exterior makes wiping down a quick task – this is vital, since this appliance will stay rooted to your counter all year round.

Who would this suit?

The Smeg Countertop Air Fry Oven is a great fit for those who appreciate both form and function. If you’re drawn to retro aesthetics and want an appliance that looks as good as it cooks, this is the one.

I think it would add instant character to a plain kitchen, especially city apartments or beach houses that lack a built-in oven. It would also be ideal for a family household that enjoys experimenting in the kitchen, with features like steam baking adding a touch of luxury to everyday meals.

If you're after ultra-crisp air frying or need something for a smaller space, however, you may find yourself looking at more compact, speedier models.

How does it compare?

The main rival to the Smeg Countertop Oven is probably the 5-star rated Café Couture Oven with Air Fry. This offers more advanced smart technology, including Wi-Fi connectivity and customizable cooking modes. We weren't that enamored with its air frying function though.

If you're keen to get an oven that can steam like a professional chef, look to the Fotile Chefcubii. It's half the price of Smeg's oven and we really loved it, although the design was a bit clunky. In fact, if you're not sold on the Smeg, you can read up on all the rivals in our guide to the best countertop ovens.

If you're just looking for an air fryer (and you don't care about looks), you'll want to leave this page immediately and head on over to our best air fryer guide. These are ideal for quick, healthy meals, taking up very little space and heating up rapidly. They are also more budget-friendly, too.

Our verdict

Honestly, I was so reluctant to send this back. There's a huge, Smeg-shaped hole in my kitchen. I've come to view my functionally-designed oven and air fryer with contempt. I suppose I'll have to start saving, because with Smeg's stunning design and sleek cooking performance, comes a relatively steep price tag.

How we test

To test the best ovens and air fryers on the market, we focus on exceptional cooking performance. As a team of trained product testers, home cooks, and appliance experts, we assess each model by toasting, baking, broiling, and more. During these tests, we evaluate how evenly the oven browns and crisps, seeking results that are consistent and perfectly cooked.

Ease of use is essential, so we examine the intuitiveness of the controls, the preheat, and the quality of the instruction booklet. We also assess any special functions, such as grilling or steaming to gauge whether they're gimmicks or actually useful. We then make notes on capacity – important knowledge if you're hoping to cook large portions or use multiple racks.

Since cleaning is often a hassle, we evaluate how easy it is to maintain, checking if the racks and trays are removable and dishwasher-safe. We also scrutinize the materials, looking for durable, quality designs. After testing, we scour customer reviews to check out the reliability and overall satisfaction in the long term.

Finally, when investing in a kitchen appliance, price matters, so we weigh up the features, performance, and design to see if the toaster oven offers good value for money. Our goal is to ensure you select a model that not only performs well, but also looks stylish on your countertop for years to come.