KitchenAid's controversial new mixer divided the internet – is the wooden bowl too beautiful to be practical? I put it to the ultimate baker's test

‘It’s finally here!’ I squealed, lugging a heavy parcel into my apartment. My partner looked at me perplexed. He’s accustomed to parcels of all shapes and sizes turning up in our kitchen, but this was different. Inside this box was the most coveted kitchen appliance of the year – and the most controversial.

KitchenAid’s evergreen stand mixer (the latest model in their Design Series) broke the internet with its rustic good looks. Unlike the glossy pink models you probably associate with the brand, this mixer is moody, dark, and mysterious. The Artisan frame (top of our best stand mixer guide for years now) is cast in a dark green hue and features a walnut wood bowl; the first of its kind.

Although KitchenAid’s new mixer sold out within hours, armchair critics have been tutting and shaking their heads as appliances fly off the shelves. Gen-Z fans on TikTok were immediately captivated by the statement piece, but commenters on Instagram and Facebook were outraged, deploring the practicalities of the walnut bowl. One food journalist took to Threads to say: ‘I’m sorry but if you buy that new $700 kitchen aid with the wooden bowl, you’re not using it to cook or bake – it’s a statement piece. You won’t be using it. Can’t be soaked. Can’t put into dishwasher.’

These concerns stem from the long list of care instructions on the KitchenAid website. ‘Ensure you take good care of this beautiful bowl by only hand-washing (not dishwasher safe), and dry it immediately. We don't recommend leaving it submerged in water for a long time. Use only gentle, non-abrasive detergents and avoid using steel wool or steel scouring pads.’

To maintain the wood's integrity, bakers must also condition the bowl with food-safe wood oil regularly. KitchenAid reassures that the wooden bowl can be used for all whipping, kneading and mixing needs, yet they ‘also recommend adding a stainless steel work bowl to have on hand!’

As a keen baker and product tester, I’m one of the first people to test it out. I’ve used the best mixers on the market, including the stainless steel original this model is based on. I trained in essential patisserie at Leith’s School of Food & Wine and wholeheartedly believe, as my alma mater taught me: ‘Investing in excellent equipment is key to becoming a better baker. Electric stand mixers are expensive, but an essential shortcut to acquiring professional baking skills at home.’

This begs the question: how professional is KitchenAid's walnut bowl?

First impressions

The mixer frame was more olive-toned than I’d expected, but it pairs beautifully with the brass detailing. The walnut bowl was smooth to the touch, with a unique wood pattern beneath the matte satin finish. Overall, a stunning piece of craftsmanship.

KitchenAid says the tactile nature helps ‘makers feel like they’re out in the woods experiencing all the revitalizing elements.’ Perhaps this is where criticism is creeping in from; I can reassure you that the texture is a whole lot more refined than a raw tree trunk. The wood is well-crafted, smooth, and food-safe.

The care card in the box says: 'Wood is a natural material that shows signs of wear as you use it; marks won't affect its usage.' So I suppose the bowl might become more ‘rustic’ over time.

How does it compare to the classic KitchenAid design?

Like all Artisan mixers, the evergreen model comes with a stainless steel whisk, dough hook, and flex edge beater. For adventurous cooks, there are exciting attachments sold separately, from pasta cutters to ice cream churners – which are compatible with both models.

Performance & Cleaning

Test 1: Cake batter

My first test was cake batter. I felt inspired to make something natural and earthy, so I chose an olive oil, almond and thyme cake. The evergreen model performed perfectly, whipping the batter together in seconds. This was no surprise really, since the frame and attachments are no different to the best model in our guide.

After pouring the batter into my cake tins, I followed KitchenAid’s cleaning instructions for the walnut bowl. This was surprisingly effortless. I’d go as far as to say it was actually easier than cleaning a metal bowl. The dregs of the batter instantly lifted from the smooth wooden surface and swirled down the sink. I used a soft sponge and gentle, neroli dish soap from Homecourt to help shift things, but this was barely needed.

To be honest, I usually hand-wash my mixing bowls anyway, since they're very large and I usually need the bowl back immediately to make fillings and toppings for my cake.

Luckily, the bowl was clean and hand-dried in about three minutes. I inspected for any scuffs or scratches from the ground almonds, but the walnut finish remained in perfect condition. So far, so good.

Test 2: Meringue

Next, I decided to bake something a little more controversial. Meringue. As I’ve underlined in red pen in my cooking school notebook, the first rule of meringues is to use a clean glass or metal bowl. These materials are preferred since they’re non-porous and reduce the risk of residual oils. When whisking egg whites for recipes like pavlova, macarons, and meringue, it's essential to avoid even the smallest amount of oil or fat, which can prevent the egg whites from achieving the correct texture.

KitchenAid acknowledges this in the FAQs: ‘Since maintenance requires regular oil application to the interior of the bowl, it is not recommended to use the oiled wood bowl for whipped egg creations.’

I hadn't oiled the bowl yet, but I did just use it to create an olive oil cake (with copious amounts of olive oil applied directly to the interior). So I was curious to see what would happen.

The mixer took 4 minutes to whip my egg whites into stiff peaks – I'd usually expect it to be around 3 minutes, but 4 minutes is very respectable. I added sugar and cranked the speed setting up to 'fast', watching as a perfect, glossy texture began to form. The baked meringues were absolutely delicious – crisp on the outside, gooey within.

Test 3: Black forest babka

What I loved most about using the evergreen mixer is that it inspired me be creative with my bakes. KitchenAid recommend some gorgeous forest-themed dishes on their website, from wild mushroom galette to black forest crumble.

I was keen to try a dough-based recipe to see how the walnut bowl fared with this task. My recipe required an 8-hour proof – and I was concerned that the wooden bowl wouldn’t like this. But the KitchenAid FAQs reassured me: 'Yes, you are able to proof dough in your wooden bowl.’

Wood is a porous material, which means it can absorb moisture, oils, and scents – so I was interested to see if the wood had absorbed a yeast scent after such a long proof. I was reassured by my 'sniff test.' It smelt very neutral, but I've vowed to keep an eye on this. I'll report back after continuous use, to let you know whether any absorbed scents linger over time.

Walnut Oil Conditioning

Although I have only used the bowl over a couple of weeks (I promise to report back once I have owned it for a while and cared for it throughout the seasons), I decided to oil it and report on the maintenance process.

KitchenAid Design Manager, Brittni Pertjis says, ‘To season your wood bowl, I would use a food-safe mineral oil, a food-safe wood polish, or a walnut oil. You can put that on a rag and just start to wipe the wood to condition it.’

I did exactly that. It was easy, and I actually felt pride in taking care for such a beautiful appliance.

@kitchenaidusa

♬ original sound - KitchenAid

The Verdict

Sorry to the haters, but I think this bowl is effortless to use, clean, and care for. It stood up to my tests. Critics are upset that it can’t be soaked in the sink or popped into the dishwasher – but my batter, dough, and sugary egg white mixtures lifted off effortlessly with soapy water and a soft sponge. No soak needed.

Sure, it requires long-term maintenance, but that’s true for most beautiful kitchenware – like copper pans, for example. However, if you’re looking for pure convenience, reliable functionality, and affordability, the classic Artisan design is a much better option. It's $200 cheaper and you can’t really go wrong with it.

Whatever your taste, all new KitchenAid mixers come with a 1-year guarantee and repair promise, so you can rest easy in your purchase. Personally, I’m really happy with the natural design of my new wooden mixer. I’m hoping with the recommended TLC, my walnut bowl will stand the test of time and become a truly ‘evergreen’ piece in my kitchen.